our blog
May 22
We left Eclipse anchored near Happy Times and under the watchful eye of Cheryl. The rest of us dinghied in to Fronteras town to brave the local buses on our latest escapade. The bus was a notch above the old retired school buses in looks but no better in comforts. And, it was standing room only. We were herded about half way back in the aisle and braced each other as the bus lurched forward. These buses make frequent stops so I imagined we could scamper and scoop up the seats when other riders departed, but at each stop another 10 bodies would cram on and no one got off. The aisle space was now filled with a person on each side teetering on the arm rest and another smashed standing between. The airflow doesn't make it up to head level, and you can't see out the side windows or the front so all you get is the constant lurching side to side as the bus makes its way over and around who knows what. I have no idea what the countryside was like in this part of Guatemala. Of all of our latin american bus rides this was the most miserable. It was well over two hours before any of our party got a seat. Michelle, the boys and I did tag team standing/lap-sitting/ arm rest sitting for the final hour until the bus dumped us out at the Flores bus station… almost. The driver said end of the line, although our tickets and guide book indicated there was one more stop where we were headed. "No, el bus stops here."
It was probably only a couple miles to our destination but we didn't know which direction, and after the painful ride nobody was gung-ho for a hike. So, after taking turns in Los Banos, we slung our backpacks and confronted the line of grinning taxi drivers. I picked the biggest vehicle that we could stuff six of us and gear into - being an old Corolla. Even negotiating him down a few bucks had us hugely overpaying - $15. The driver confirmed, "The bus does not like the island" which I interpret to mean that the drivers and taxis have a deal: drop the gringos at the station and get a kickback from the taxi drivers.
The island is very nice. We had nice cheap rooms that I found on TripAdvisor, and we spent the evening stretching our aching backs and surveying the many little eateries scattered around the periphery. The tour bus to Tikal leaves at 4:15am, purportedly to view sunrise over the pyramids.
May 23
Morning did come to soon. We took our seats in the tourist van with a few other backpackers. All seats were filled but we could see a couple guys negotiating with the driver and then they made their way to the van door with the intention of getting in. After our previous bus ride, the notion of cramming four bodies across for a two hour ride 'did not sit well' with any of us and we let the driver know. Nothing personal young fellow backpackers, but you need to find another way to the pyramids. They looked disappointed but acknowledged that theirs was a bad plan.
The sun was peaking over the tree tops long before we made through the jungle. I think the hype in the tourist brochures about watching the sunrise from a pyramid is just to get you to the park early so you'll buy breakfast and coffee there. We could have used those couple extra hours of sleep.
Tikal is amazing. It keep going and going with pyramids and other structures scattered for a couple miles. There are still a number of structures that are covered by jungle. Every now and then the howler monkeys scattered in the trees would make a terrific racket. I cannot think of a way to describe it - unearthly, demonic. Them seem very grumpy but perhaps to their ears its like Josh Groban.
Stretching our backs after that horrible bus ride.
We are the King! Flores has its share of tourists, and therefore a Burger King. Some fries and a shake sounded just right so the men were off to explore (don't bother with the shakes, they aren't very good). There was also a very fancy mall and multiplex with hardly a soul in it.
The pyramid complex at Tikal
Cool furry trees
The church tree. I forgot the story, but the tree is holy and somebody held their religious services next to it.
Climbing a pyramid
Tikal
Tikal
If the pyramids didn't prove it to you, we really are in Guatemala, Centro America
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Flores & Tikal